VERSIÓN EN ESPAÑOL AQUÍ.

Hello everyone! I hope you’re great, here in my city we never felt the summer and autumn pokes his cold fingers around here (goodbye to my chance to eat ice cream without feel the cold breeze ಥ_ಥ). I know I owed you this entry for a very long time and I apologize, but this time I tried to summarize it and make it a little easier to read. I tried to include as much information as possible, and it’s just that exfoliation is a very broad subject and it differs depending on the skin type we have. Before starting, I want to tell you that for specific situations on your skin (such as dermatitis, allergies, rosacea and similar topics) you should always go to a dermatologist to determine which one is the best option for you. Let's start then!

[Before we start, I'd like to sat that this guide was written with basic notions about exfoliation and I tried to support it through reliable bibliographic sources, my intention is not to replace the function of experts such as dermatologists or medical specialists. You can take this guide as a starting point and ask your doctor what is the best to use ◕‿‿◕].

While exfoliation occurs naturally in our skin, some factors such as age, hormones, poor diet and constant changes in weather can delay or alter this process, so that the cells won’t detach properly and the skin’ll look opaque with dry and rough patches, and even with problems of congested pores, acne breakouts and wrinkles. That’s when we can help this process to be carried out properly with the help of exfoliating products.

Once said this, exfoliation is recommended for:

When I didn’t have a skin care routine established as such, I had in mind that exfoliation was only done through the use of brushes, pliers or even homemade masks such as baking soda with lemon (and later I’ll tell you why that’s the worst thing you can do to your skin). But as I researched more about skin care, I found out that there are exfoliating gels, bubble masks, pads and even acids that can sound very harmful the first time. Are all exfoliants of the same type or is there any difference between them?*

Within the types of exfoliants, there are 2 major categories: physical (also called mechanical) and chemical, although today there are products that mix both to ensure a more detailed work on our skin (such as exfoliating pads, which are cotton pads embedded in an exfoliating acid and thus exercise physical and chemical exfoliation). These categories have a wide range of products ranging from the gentlest to the most abrasive.

*There are several dermatological treatments to perform a deeper exfoliation and specifically for the situations of each skin type, so it’s advisable to go to a specialist to verify if these treatments are suitable for you. Regarding this entry, I will be sharing only the most popular exfoliants used in cosmetics.

It refers to all those products that exfoliate through exfoliating particles or instruments where friction must be exerted to remove the superficial layer of the skin. Usually, they are used after cleansing / double cleansing and before the toner. The advantage of this type of exfoliants is that they give fast results, because the skin looks smoother and brighter, besides that there is less chance of generating an allergic reaction and most of them are reusable, so they are economical and friendly with the environment . However, we must choose the exfoliant carefully according to our skin type, since some can become very aggressive causing overexfoliation and even micro-tears on the skin; this is why its use is not recommended in people with active acne breakouts, dry or very sensitive skin. People with normal, combination or oily skin can use them since their skin tends to resist more the action of this type of products.

Within this category, we can find:

Scrubs type

These are products that contain abrasive particles that are rubbed and spread on the skin to later rinse them. Today there are scrubs that use different exfoliating particles, offering more options for each type of skin:

Plastic microbeads

These are small particles that provide a mild-medium exfoliation, but which are quite aggressive with the environment since they are not biodegradable and can cause alterations in the life cycles of many marine species on the planet (that’s why they were banned in the U.S.A.). Currently, they have been replaced by ingredients such as jojoba pearls, as these have an exfoliating effect similar to plastic microbeads but aren’t aggressive to the environment.

Coffee grains

These are effective exfoliants and very used because of their ability to stimulate blood circulation, but the particles can be very large and aggressive to be used by people with sensitive skin.

Sugar grains

These are exfoliating crystals that can be more aggressive than jojoba beads, so it’s recommended to use them on the wet face and leave them for a minute without rubbing them, so that the particles’ll dissolve and become smaller and smoother. If you want to use them, it is recommended to look for small crystals, since they are gentler than larger crystals.

These are cleansers that contain exfoliating grains of materials such as sugar, salt or jojoba wax. They are recommended more as exfoliants than as cleansers, so they shouldn’t be used daily (2 or 3 times a week at most will be fine). They are used on clean and dry skin (referring to that isn’t wet and that these exfoliants can be more aggressive) or on wet skin, rubbing in circles and then rinsing. They are not recommended for sensitive skin.

These are products of gel-like consistency that contain cellulose or carbomer, which are rubbed on the skin to form exfoliating fibers once they come into contact with the skin. Many people thought that the particles that are formed when rubbing is the "dead skin" that is removed by the peeling gel and in a certain way is true. But it happens that when you’re rubbing the peeling gel, the cellulose or the carbomer that they contain acquires this form due to this friction and at the same time that these particles are formed, a large part of the dead cells is removed. Its use is recommended more than scrubs because they are gentler on the skin, and some even contain enzymes that provide a deeper exfoliation but without being too abrasive.

Known also as Korean Towel or Italian towel, it’s a piece of exfoliating cloth that is effective both on the face and on the body (depending on the level of abrasiveness that the cloth has). To keep it in good condition, it must be washed frequently to prevent it from collecting water, since this’d be an environment conducive to harmful bacteria.

I had already mentioned these tools in my post about Pore Care. They are very gentle exfoliants, and can be used alone or with an aqueous cleanser. To sanitize them, it is recommended to put them in a container with water in the microwave for 1 minute.

There are several types of these products, from manual brushes that depend on the movements that are given, to the automatic ones that can vibrate or roll on their own. They must be used with care to avoid overexfoliation, and it is recommended that vibrating brushes be used because they are gentler than those that rotate. For rotary brushes, its use with a water-based cleanser is recommended.

It’s a relatively new family of exfoliating acids (including the lactobionic acid and gluconolactone), which are less irritating than AHA and BHA because they have a large molecular size and don’t penetrate as deeply, thus preventing allergic reaction or irritation produced by other acids. That’s why they are highly recommended for sensitive skin, skin with wrinkles and are even suggested treatments for situations such as seborrheic dermatitis (however, remember that if you have any of these conditions it’s important to ask your dermatologist if you can use it on your skin). It’s considered that they have the ability to brightening the skin, improve the tone, reduce the signs of aging, strengthen the protective barrier of the skin, promote wound healing and all this without increasing sensitivity to the sun.




These are derivatives of vitamin A used because their ability to increase cell renewal, but also have exfoliating activity. They slow down the breakdown of collagen molecules and act as antioxidants, reducing damage at the cellular level. They usually work well at low concentrations, so percentages greater than 2% may be irritating and unnecessary. Retinol and retinol esters (such as retinyl palmitate) are available in various cosmetic products, but there are some retinoids (such as tretinoin, adapalene and tazarotene) that are only available under prescription. They are sensitive to light and air, so you have to keep them as best as possible and use them only at night. They can be irritating even for skin that is not sensitive, so you have to use them carefully. Its use is prohibited during pregnancy because they can cause alterations in the birth of the baby.




Unlike exfoliation with acids, this type of exfoliation is usually smoother, regular and safe, so they are usually recommended for people with rosacea. They are made from protein digester enzymes such as bromelain in pineapple, papain in papaya and actinidin in kiwi. They are sensitive to heat and are released by contact with the skin, penetrating the stratum corneum and helping to remove dead cells that are slightly detached. They usually come in wash-off products, which are rinsed 5-15 minutes after application.

If this is the first time you’ll include these types of products in your routine, it would be best to choose a product with one type of chemical exfoliator and see if your skin tolerates it and if there are positive changes with it. As you become accustomed to its use, you may include other exfoliants in the same routine and even on the same day, depending on the ingredients of the products you use.

• Retinol, which shouldn’t be used if AHA, BHA, vitamin C or benzoyl peroxide are used.

• AHA, which shouldn’t be used if other AHAs or with vitamin C are used.

• Benzoyl peroxide + chemical exfoliants in general.

When the skin is already accustomed to the use of some chemical exfoliants, it can be used at different times of the day (for example, using BHA in the morning and vitamin C at night) or on different days of the week (such as glycolic acid on Mondays and mandelic acid on Thursdays), but only if your skin is not sensitive and if you’ll use sunscreen daily.

Despite these recommendations, you can find some cosmetics in the market that combine some of these chemical exfoliants and that can be used, since they are formulated with acids at small concentrations and don’t generate overexfoliation at the same level as with higher concentrations. 

Also referred to as inflammatory lesions of the initial process or initial breakouts, is the determined time in which you start using a new product and in which the skin can have some breakouts that cause confusion and make us think that "this product has only worsened the condition of our skin". However, this process is temporary and with the constant use of the product the skin should look better and these breakouts should disappear. This reaction is noted in "active" ingredients such as exfoliating acids or acne medications, and this is due to the fact that these ingredients accelerate the cell renewal process, including that the breakouts that would come out in some future weeks will appear when use the product (that is, they DON’T generate new breakouts or acne, but accelerate the exit of those that were already on the skin). However, if this reaction is generated using a product that doesn’t contain active ingredients for skin renewal, then we could talk about an allergic reaction.

The purging is often confused with an allergic reaction, but the main difference between both is that during the purging, breakouts will appear where they usually appear on your skin, and in an allergic reaction there will be breakouts even in parts of the skin where they don’t usually appear, and don’t disappear even if you use the product on a daily basis. If after 2 to 3 weeks of use there are still constant breakous that don’t decrease, it’s advisable to suspend the use of the product and try to replace and cure the protective barrier of the skin to avoid further injuries (suspending the exfoliation of any kind until you see improvements).

Although emergence of breakouts may be common in the purging, you must watch their behavior to avoid cystic inflammation.

To avoid generating a severe purging, it’s always recommended to perform patch test to know if the skin’ll tolerate the product, and on this basis to introduce the new product slowly, at low concentrations and infrequently, as well as to hydrate well the skin and use a mild cleanser to avoid irritation or inflammation.

Peel-off masks 

These masks were famous long time ago because they promised to clean blackheads in one step. They consist of products that adhere to the skin, then you left on for a few minutes while they solidify and later are removed in a single movement. I still remember that there were many bloggers / vloggers who shared their painful experiences using these masks, and here begins the hell use them, since many dermatologists comment that any cosmetic, especially a mask, should produce pain when retreating. And at the end of the day, it was a pain that it wouldn’t be worth to have half a face cut off, because when they are removed they actually remove the most superficial layer of the stratum corneum, many hairs and the outer part of the blackheads, and the worst is that in the pores will still be the remains of blackheads that can be replenished again. Not to mention that the continuous use of them can lead to problems such as skin irritant dermatitis, causing the skin to have redness, swelling, scaling and even wounds. This doesn’t mean that all peel-offs are bad, but you have to verify that they are safe and use them 1 time a week maximum, otherwise your skin may begin to dry quickly and get irritated. It’s recommended that before using them, you’d apply a hot towel or steam for 5-7 minutes on the face before applying it, so that there’ll be a better extraction. 

Bubble masks  

These masks are very popular due to their original way of use. Apply them, wait a few minutes and your face will look like a fluffy sheep because of the amount of bubbles that occur. They are made from chemicals called oxygenated perfluorocarbons, which are dissolved gases packed and sealed under pressure in the mask containers. Once the mask is on the face, they react to contact with oxygen and turn into gas, creating bubbles all over the face. Although there is much talk about the properties of oxygen in the skin, such as collagen production and wound healing, these effects have been observed by applying it into the skin and not over it, in addition to only lasting a few minutes and then they rinse (they don’t give too much time to oxygen for act). If you are thinking of buying any of these, look for those that can help them absorb excess sebum, moisturize skin and brighten your face.

In several blogs and even magazines or websites dedicated to beauty themes, they recommend it as something sacred, which is a super exfoliant that removes skin spots and eliminates pimples and blackheads. These promises look very tempting, especially for people who suffer from oily skin and breakouts and blackheads (like me) ... But on a closer way, it’ll be better not to apply it directly on your face. Why? At first place, this product has a very high pH level (too alkaline), which can ruin the protective acid mantle of the skin and remove with it the oils and bacteria of our skin, and guess what? You’ll have oilier skin and more acne breakouts! And your skin will interpret this as a lack of sebum and will generate more, and everything will have been a lost cause. Not to mention that baking soda can be very irritating to the skin, causing skin allergies, redness and burning sensation.

It's the use of exfoliating products that is performed more times than necessary, compromising the stratum corneum of the skin seriously.

In the first place, the use of any exfoliant or product with active ingredients that generate skin irritation must be suspended. During this stage, the skin should be left to rest, using mild pH cleansers and try to hydrate and seal this hydration so the skin’ll recovers quickly. It’s recommended to include products that contain ingredients that help to recover and strengthen skin, such as ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, centella asiatica and niacinamide. And don’t forget the sunscreen! It must be a mandatory product if you want your skin to return to its natural condition as it’ll be more exposed than usual to UV damage. 

• Physical exfoliants: Peeling gel, konjac sponges, exfoliating pads with moisturizing components.

• Chemical exfoliants: AHA, retinoids (although these must be applied slowly and careful since they could further dry the skin), PHA, enzymatic exfoliants.

• Physical exfoliants: Peeling gel, konjac sponges.

• Chemical exfoliants: PHA, AHA (considering only mandelic acid), enzymatic exfoliants.

• Physical exfoliants: Peeling gel, konjac sponges, exfoliating pads.

• Chemical exfoliants: AHA, PHA, enzymatic exfoliants.

• Physical exfoliants: Peeling gel or konjac sponges, exfoliating pads.

• Chemical exfoliants: AHA for dry areas and BHA in oily areas.

• Physical exfoliants: Type scrubs (always look for small particles and not so abrasive), exfoliating towels, konjac sponges, facial brushes, exfoliating pads.

• Chemical exfoliants: AHA, BHA, PHA, retinoids.

While exfoliation helps the skin look better and the products of the routine are absorbed quickly, we must remember that the dead cells that are removed are also a protective barrier for our skin and that removing them, we are exposing our skin to more aggressions , dehydration and infections and secondary injuries. That's why you have to consider the following care after exfoliating: 

Moisturize the skin and prevent moisture loss: After exfoliating, it is considered to apply moisturizing products on the skin so that the skin can recover moisture and avoid generating problems such as sensitivity or dryness. 

Use sunscreen: And this is in any type of exfoliation, no matter if it’s done in the morning or at night. After exfoliating, the skin is sensitive to the activity of the sun's UV rays, and in some exfoliants this sensitivity can last up to 1 week after suspending its use. 

Avoid overexfoliation by introducing the exfoliating product once a week, and if your skin tolerates it, you can increase the frequency of use.

Remember that ALWAYS (and this applies to all types of products) you have to introduce only one new product at a time, because this way you will know if your skin is allergic to any component and you can suspend it before generating unnecessary injuries or irritations.





What do you think of this guide? This time I tried to make it as short as possible (although I think I didn’t achieve my goal ಥ益ಥ), including general information on this very interesting topic. Do you use physical or chemical exfoliants? I’d love to know which one you use, or if you know of some type of exfoliant that hasn’t been included, it’ll be great if you could suggest one to include it in this post. For my part, I say goodbye, we’ll be reading very soon with new content for the blog, we are close to celebrate the first year with the blog! And I am planning something very cool for all the people who read me frequently to compensate their support and love. I send you a big hug and we'll be reading soon, until next time! ♥

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