[TIPS]: Wrinkle care basic Guide
julio 06, 2018
[VERSIÓN EN ESPAÑOL, HAZ CLICK AQUÍ]
Hello everyone! How have you been? I know I owed you this post since long time ago, and I'm really sorry for the delay. June was a very stressful month, but July looks more promising and I'll have time to share new things that I've been preparing for you. In this post, we're going to discuss a topic that is important because everyone at some point in life'll get to that situation ... Wrinkles on our skin! And although it's something that occurs naturally, the truth is that there are ways to take care that we reach this stage in a healthy way.
I'm sure that all of you have seen the typical advertising that says "this anti-wrinkle cream eliminates all wrinkles on the face" or "buy this anti-aging set products, so you'll look young and radiant"? And we get to the idea that the "anti-aging / anti-wrinkle" care begin just when we are older, when wrinkles have begun to appear on our face. Not to mention that these cosmetics can be expensive, and it isn't known certainty if they are effective...
What if I told you that "anti-aging" care can be done since we are young? And the best part of all, it can be done in an affordable way and with products that can be used for all skin types. Maybe you're still very young and you think that this wrinkles' topic is still far from your skin concerns, but it's so important that you take precautions from an early age. The truth is that, as in many other areas of medicine, the best'll be always prevent first.
[Before we start, I'd like to sat that this guide was written with basic notions about wrinkle care and I tried to support it through reliable bibliographic sources, my intention is not to replace the function of experts such as dermatologists or medical specialists. You can take this guide as a starting point and ask your doctor what is the best to use ◕‿‿◕].
Let's start then!
In several Internet pages, forums and social networks where skin care is the main topic, an agreement is always reached: "Anti-wrinkle" or "anti-aging" products don't exist. Well, it's not like they don't "exist" as such, but the name is too ambitious. The truth is that there are no products that stop the passage of time (anti-aging) and won't eliminate or prevent the wrinkles formation totally (anti-wrinkles). What can be achieved for sure is that we reach this stage of life with our skin aging naturally and healthy, ensuring that it remains in that state without any complications. That's why this entry is called "wrinkle care".
Human skin has different layers:
Epidermis
It's the outermost skin layer that serves as a barrier against external threats. In this layer, we can found the oldest cells because the new cells that are produced quickly every day force them to come out to the surface, replacing them. If there is any abnormality in this process, the skin may look scaly.
Dermis
It is the skin layer that gives support and nutrients to the epidermis. It contains all the structural elements, including connective tissue that fulfills various functions. Within this tissue, we can find important components such as:
Subcutaneous tissue
It's the innermost layer, it's composed of fat cells that make the skin appear plump and abundant. Also in this layer you can find various structures such as sebaceous glands, sweat glands and hair follicles.
Epidermis
It's the outermost skin layer that serves as a barrier against external threats. In this layer, we can found the oldest cells because the new cells that are produced quickly every day force them to come out to the surface, replacing them. If there is any abnormality in this process, the skin may look scaly.
Dermis
It is the skin layer that gives support and nutrients to the epidermis. It contains all the structural elements, including connective tissue that fulfills various functions. Within this tissue, we can find important components such as:
- Collagen, which gives strength, tension and firmness to the skin and composes 80% of the dermis, being also the main component of the connective tissue. There are 21 types of collagen, but focusing on the dermis, collagen type I (75-85%), type III (15%) and type V (2-4%) can be found in greater quantity.
- Elastin, a protein that provides resistance, flexibility and elasticity to the skin. It is 1000 times more resistant than collagen.
- Proteins (glycosaminoglycans), which provide structural rigidity.
Subcutaneous tissue
It's the innermost layer, it's composed of fat cells that make the skin appear plump and abundant. Also in this layer you can find various structures such as sebaceous glands, sweat glands and hair follicles.
 |
| Skin layers. Adapted from Aldag et al. (2016), Derrickson and Tortora (2006) and Pore Care basic guide. |
The causes can be divided in two:
+ INTRINSIC (CHRONOLOGICAL) CAUSES +
They occur over time, and include accumulated damage by free radicals that occur in the body's natural processes and hormonal, immune and self-repairing changes in the body as age increases.
Among the main signs we can see of the intrinsic causes are: Fine lines, thin skin, loss of elasticity.
Among the main signs we can see of the intrinsic causes are: Fine lines, thin skin, loss of elasticity.
+ EXTRINSIC (ENVIROMENTAL) CAUSES +
Damage caused by the environment and external factors. It is also called photoaging because they are damage caused by UV rays.
Although it's a natural part of the life cycle, the environment and our lifestyle can also affect how premature this aging can be. Situations such as poor diet, cigarettes consumption or alcoholic drinks and sedentary lifestyle predispose our body to age faster than premeditated (this change is known as extrinsic aging).
Many times it's something that we can't avoid, but we can try to change and / or modify our lifestyle to reduce the presence of these marked lines, as possible.
In a study carried out in Caucasian women, it was observed that the wrinkles development was due in a greater percentage to extrinsic factors, such as exposure to UV rays, being responsible for 80% of visible signs of face aging.
There are parts of the face that'll be exposed to the development of wrinkles faster. These areas can be the forehead, the contour of the eyes (the famous "crow's feet") and the contour of the lips. This is also due to the fact that those are areas that are exposed daily to UV rays and to which many times we don't dedicate adequate sun protection.
Among the main signs we can see of extrinsic causes are: deep wrinkles, scaly skin, spots.
There are also other changes that can be observed when we get older, such as:
- Fat distribution: This component can change the face position, usually down due to the effect of gravity.
- Muscle tone: Some muscles weaken over time, and tensing them repeatedly causes wrinkles to be marked at specific points (for example, the famous "crow's feet" for squinting at the sun).
- Loss of bone structure: It also loses the shape of our bones with age, affecting the area of the eyes, forehead and jaw.
Photoaging is a premature aging of the skin, caused by continuous exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, whose main source is the sun's rays and also artificial UV instruments (such as tanning beds). It's different from chronological aging (ie, the "natural" aging of the skin) because UV rays alter the normal structures of the skin. The damage is mainly perceived in the most exposed parts of the body, such as face, lips, neck and back of the hands. They can even be seen in the upper part of the chest.
+ PHOTOAGING SIGNS +
- Small veins in the nose, cheek and neck
- Loss of firmness and elasticity in the skin
- Several spots of pigmentation, such as freckles, solar lentigines (known as "age spots") and irregular skin tone.
- General loss of skin tone in areas frequently exposed to the sun.
- Due to the constant exposure to UV rays for many years, there is an increase in wrinkles around the eyes and mouth and they become deep folds. Even the lines of the forehead can be visible even when you don't frown.
- Actinic keratosis may appear, a type of skin abnormality that consists of rashes that, in very few cases, could lead to cancer.
- Dry skin.
Sun rays can damage collagen fibers faster than normal while elastin fibers begin to accumulate at abnormal levels. This accumulation generates enzymes called "metalloproteinases" (also called MMPs) that repair the skin producing collagen in an irregular way, generating collagen fibers that aren't functional and generate "solar scars" on the skin. The more this irregular production process is repeated, the faster the wrinkles will develop.
Free radicals are molecules that don't have an electron, and since they're incomplete they are constantly searching for complete molecules to be able to remove electrons. They are created when cells create energy, generating unstable oxygen molecules (during an event called "oxidation process"). When a free radical steals an electron from a complete molecule, it becomes a new free radical, and thus triggers a "zombie reaction" where multiple free radicals can exist, generating lesions in our body, as they generate damages in cellular function, altering even its genetics (referring to cellular DNA).
They can also be formed by conditions such as stress, cigarettes, diet, alcohol, sedentary lifestyle, medications, exposure to air or exposure to pollution.
These free radicals activate the metalloproteinases by damaging the collagen and elastin fibers, predisposing to signs of premature aging such as wrinkles.
Antioxidants are molecules capable of neutralizing free radicals that cause skin damage, and can do so in two ways: by breaking the reactions chain that have triggered them, or by neutralizing or slowing down their effects at the beginning of the process.
The lung damage caused by smoking is well known, but the injuries go further. The nicotine in the cigars generates narrowing of the blood vessels in the outer skin layers. This leads to irregular blood circulation in the skin, decreasing the oxygen and nutrients amounts that reach it. In addition, it's known that more than 4,000 chemicals contained in the tobacco generate damage to collagen and elastin of the dermis, causing the skin to be "loose" and wrinkled.
Aging is part of the natural process of life. As we grow, our body loses certain capacities and properties and the years begin to take their toll. As time passes, the cells take longer to produce, causing dry skin and reducing their ability to self-repair.
Although we can't perceive it with the naked eye, these are some changes that occur in our skin as time passes:
- The epidermis becomes thinner and the cells begin to lose adherence between them, giving it a loose appearance. This lack of union between cells also affects the protective function of the skin barrier, allowing moisture to be lost and it couldn't be retained as it normally did.
- The aging effects in the dermis are equally important. As time passes, collagen production decreases (naturally and after 20 years, the amount of collagen begins to decrease 1% per year) and the elastin fibers wear out. This causes wrinkles on skin and acquire a "loose" appearance. The sebaceous glands become larger but produce less sebum, while the number of sweat glands decreases. These changes generate dry skin. There is a progressive reduction in the density of the hair follicles of the face and scalp. The immune and inflammatory response of the skin decreases, exposing the skin to problems such as alopecia, xerosis, increased risk of wound contamination and neoplasms.
- Meanwhile, the dermal papillae begin to lose their shape, becoming flat and fragile. This process reduces the capacity of absorption, which interferes with the normal repair process in the skin. Also the blood vessels atrophies.
 |
| Changes in the skin with age. Image by Aldag et al. (2016). The collagen and elastin fibers break, generating alterations in the dermis and therefore in the epidermis, predisposing to the formation of wrinkles. |
Okay, so after all this long list of terms, what can I do to get my skin in the best possible condition as it ages? Let's take a look at these tips:
First of all, visit your dermatologist. There are several reasons why wrinkles are generated, so specialists will recommend products or treatments suitable for the condition of your skin.
Before you buy any product, check these important points:
Before you buy any product, check these important points:
Price: Remember that not everything cheap is bad, nor everything expensive is good. There are different brands and choices in the market that may or may not be effective, regardless of their price.
Over-the-counter products: Usually, non-prescription items contain lower concentrations of active ingredients than creams that are sold only with a prescription. One more reason to go to the dermatologist before creating an anti-wrinkle routine.
Multiple Ingredients Effectiveness: Although there are ingredients that are helpful to improve the appearance of wrinkles, it doesn't mean that the effectiveness of a product improves by adding several of them.
Constancy of use: The principle of everything in this life is to be constant, and for the wrinkles care and improvement is not the exception. You can't expect immediate results when you use your products out there from time to time.
Side effects: Some products can generate adverse reactions such as irritation, redness, itching, burning sensation or severe injuries. This is why it's important that you read the product instructions before using it.
Each skin is a universe: Sometimes a friend, your mother or someone else recommends a "terrific product, which improved their skin in two weeks." But it could happen that you don't have good results on your skin. You must keep in mind that, even if you have the same skin type as someone, it doesn't mean that the results will be the same.
I don't know if this sounds familiar to you, but my grandmother used to say "don't use anti-aging creams because you're going to spoil your skin and you'll grow old faster". There are some points of this phrase that we could rescue and treat them:
Most anti-aging products contain components that make them have a thick texture, which can be problematic for very young skin. As its function is to help the moisture retention capacity that is lost as we age, the idea is that they provide moisture and that's why they are more dense when applied. When we are young, our skin usually has the ability to retain moisture in a normal way, so it isn't necessary to include products that saturate retention or provide more oiliness due to its texture. Occasionally, too oily products can cause occlusive folliculitis in patients with eczema, generating reddish and painful inflammations under the skin.
Sometimes, there are some ingredients that aren't recommended for people on an early age. For example, the use of retinoids and Alpha Hydroxy Acids. These products have the ability to remove the surface layer of the skin, increasing the cell renewal rate. This is good for older people, because as time passes our skin doesn't remove these dead cells regularly as it did in previous stages, and these ingredients stimulate them to be eliminated to generate new cells. But in very young people, their skin may have less resistance to these exfoliants, and when they apply it, they could corrupt the natural moisture retention function of their skin, triggering irritation, hypersensitivity and redness, considering that the skin would be exposed to photosensitivity and therefore to sun damage if sunscreen is not applied properly.
The most recommended is start using these anti-wrinkle products in our 20's (it's recommended that even from 23-25 years), which is when you usually begin to appreciate the first fine lines. If we incorporate a basic routine with these compounds in this stage, we'll be able to see better results than when we incorporate it into our 30's.
But if you want to take care of your skin so that it ages in a healthy way*, you can try the following products that I share next:
As many times we don't have enough bucks but we want to start taking
care of our skin, I share here a list of the basic products that you
should include in your routine. These products can be used on people of
all ages. You must choose these products and do your routine based on
your skin type.
Oily cleanser and aqueous cleanser
Dirty skin tends to accumulate dead cells, oxidized sebum, sweat and many components of environmental pollution in our city, so it's important to perform a proper cleaning every day without fail. It's the first step of the morning and night routine and when we have clean skin, we ensure that the following products of our routine'll work effectively. The oil cleanser is used at night, to remove the dirt we accumulate throughout the day, followed by the water cleanser that'll remove the oily cleanser residues. It should be mentioned that this same cleanser can be used in the morning as the first step of the morning routine, and it should be verified that it has an acidic pH so as not to corrupt the acid mantle that protects our skin naturally (if you want to know how to figure out your pH cleanser, you can visit my IGTV to see my pH measuring strips use guide).
Toner
It's
one of the most important steps of our routine, since its main function
is to balance and return the pH of the skin to its normal level (around
5 - 5.9). Depending on the brands, there are balancing toners (which
have an acidic pH and restore the pH of the skin), hydrating toners
(which restore hydration lost during washing or give an extra
hydration-moisturization to the skin) and hybrid toners (which mixes the
balancing and hydrating toners) that, in addition to returning the pH
of the skin to a normal level, will make the following products of the
routine absorb better. Thanks to this type of products, it'll be
possible to maintain a good hydrating - moisture level in the skin,
without predisposing it to dryness.
Hydrating / moisturizing cream
Hydrating / moisturizing cream
If
our skin is dry, it'll be more exposed to damage and injury that can
lead to the loss of collagen and fine lines (or wrinkles) will be more
noticeable. An hydrating product can help bring water to our skin, while
a moisturizer can carry nutrients and helps reduce the appearance of
wrinkles by retaining moisture in the skin, so these products are key to
keeping our skin hydrated and / or with nutrients that give it an
optimal state and a healthy aspect.
Sunscreen
Sunscreen
Believe it
or not, it's the most effective product against premature aging and the
appearance of early wrinkles. Best of all, it can be used since we are
young and when we are older, and there are many varieties on the market
for different skin types. Just please check that they are broad spectrum
and have a Sun Protection Factor greater than 30, with a minimum PA ++.
In addition, several studies show that daily use of sunscreen can
reduce the chances of developing actinic keratinosis. If you want to
know more about sunscreens, check my Sun Protection entry.
*
The hormonal, surgical and dermatological treatments should be left to
dermatologists and skin specialists, go with them to see if they are
suitable for you.
I share a list of ingredients that may be useful to improve moisture, hydration, firmness and elasticity of the skin, as well as some may contain antioxidants that will help to combat the damage caused by free radicals. Many of the ingredients listed here can be found in my entry related to Pore Care.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA): They are water-soluble substances, derived from sugar, milk, nuts and fruits. Among the most used are glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid and citric acid. Its exfoliating function is exerted on the most superficial skin layers, reducing the wrinkles and blemishes appearance, as well as moisturizing and promoting the collagen production (such as glycolic acid). They are usually recommended even for people with sensitive skin, because the molecule size of many of them (such as lactic or mandelic acids) makes the penetration in the skin slower and therefore less irritating. When you use any of these, don't mixt it with other AHA's because of the overexfoliation risk and because they can reduce its effectiveness. They can be used in the same routine with BHA, but you should alternate days when you apply them on your routine.
Aloe Vera: Among its many known properties, it has antioxidant properties thanks to its polyphenol content. It's also anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and moisturizing.
Asparagus Root: It has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities, in
addition to promoting the synthesis of collagen and soothes irritated
skin.
Astragalus root: Root with saponins and polysaccharides rich in
antioxidants. It promotes the natural production of hyaluronic acid in
the skin, stimulates the production of collagen and contains an enzyme
that helps to treat discoloration on skin.
Bee venom: It has antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant
properties, helping to heal injured skin. The method by which the poison
is collected don't hurt the bees, even the beekeepers comment that this
process helps increase the honey production.
Bird Nest: Extract taken from the nests built with the swiftlet's
saliva. Rich in antioxidants, amino acids and glycoproteins. Promotes
the growth of healthy skin and stimulates the natural process of skin
healing.
Black Tea: Possesses polyphenols (like
those of green tea) that has antioxidant capacities, inhibiting the
generation of free radicals and neutralizing them.
Carotenoids: A family of fat-soluble compounds from plants. They are considered efficient neutralizers of free radicals, being Beta-Carotene the most studied and reported.
Beta-carotene: Yellowish pigments found in plants, bacteria and food. They are important because two molecules of beta-carotene can form vitamin A (retinol). The main sources of beta-carotene are found in foods such as egg white and liver. Thanks to this, it has great performance as an antioxidant. In this group of molecules are also lycopenes, from foods such as carrots, tomatoes, spinach, potatoes and algae. The beta-carotenes have great antioxidant capacity, becoming superior to alpha-tocopherol to reduce the consequences of oxidation and creation of free radicals. Despite their importance as antioxidants, they are often used as tanning cosmetics.
Caffeine: It has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that, by constricting the blood vessels, can reduce redness and swelling in the area under the eyes temporarily.
Caviar (salmon egg): Rich in proteins, minerals, vitamins, amino acids and lipids, which has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Promotes cell renewal, brightens the face and reduces redness.
Centella asiatica: Known as Gotu Kola, is a medicinal plant used for years to accelerate the healing wounds process, for its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. It's also a powerful antioxidant that stimulates the collagen production and reduces the appearance of marked scars.
Ceramides: The are lipids that are found naturally in our body, whose function is to maintain skin cells, as well as hair and nails cells. When they stay together, they form a protective barrier that fills the skin, retains moisture and gives resistance to UV factors and pollutants. However, when we're getting older, the number of ceramides is reduced, so the skin is more exposed to external agents and becomes more sensitive, with greater chances of developing dermatitis and / or wrinkles and worsening the pores appearance. Adding ceramides to your skincare routing, you'll balance the moisture - sebum levels of your skin, descreasing the overproduction of sebum and improving the protective barrier, increasing the protection and hydration of the skin, therefore improving its appearance. You an also include phytosphingosine and shipgolipidenes, which are the ceramides' precursors that can help recover the protective barrier. You must be caferul and don't expose them to the environment, since light and air can reduce their effectiveness.
Cheese: Contains moisturizing serum in addition to vitamins A, B and E (known as antioxidants).
Chrysanthellum Indicum: Plant that has antibacterial, antioxidant and
anti-inflammatory properties. It's effective reducing redness of the
skin, especially in sensitive skin. It has come to be included in
treatments for skin conditions such as rosacea.
Cnidium Officinale root: Plant with antibacterial, antifungal and
antioxidant properties. It's commonly used in anti-aging products
because of its ability to locate free radicals. It's also included in
products to soothe rashes.
Cocoa butter: Lipid derived from plants that, in addition to
moisturizing and preventing the loss of water, is rich in antioxidants.
Coenzyme Q10 (COQ10): Also called ubiquinone, it is a fat-soluble
coenzyme that occurs naturally in our cells. It's important for the
energy production in cells and cellular respiration in the mitochondria,
but it diminishes as time passes and when exposed for too much time to
UV radiation. It helps reduce fine lines around the eyes and protect the
skin from damage caused by the sun.
Collagen: Protein with
moisturizing properties, which is usually used as "soluble" or
"hydrolyzed" collagen. Provides skin hydration and temporary tensioning
effects to the skin. You should consider that the collagen particle is
very large and doesn't penetrate completely into the skin.
Donkey milk: Rich in fatty acids and antioxidants such as vitamins A, B,
C, D and E. It also contains proteins and ceramides. Provides
moisturizing and has anti-inflammatory effects.
Flavonoids: Also called bioflavonoids, they can be found in dark
chocolate, soy, almonds, beer, wine, green tea, black tea, cranberry
extract and gingko biloba extract. They are great neutralizers of free
radicals, protect against the effects of UVA rays, have
anti-inflammatory activities and inhibit cellular DNA damage. They have
been attributed functions as "sunscreens" to absorb a lot of the UVB
rays, in addition to inhibiting enzymes related to the inflammatory
response that occurs when the skin comes in contact with UV radiation.
Ginkgo biloba (or Maidenhair Tree): It's a plant with antimicrobial,
anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity. It's helpful for the
treatment and prevention of acne, promoting correct blood circulation,
and studies have shown that it provides extra protection against damage
generated by UV rays.
Ginseng (Panax ginseng, red, fresh, white and
wild varieties): It has powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory
properties. It promotes a correct blood circulation and accelerates the
healing wounds process, stimulating the collagen synthesis and inhibits
the dark spots formation.
Goat milk: Contains antioxidant vitamins such as A, B and C as well as
zinc, fatty acids, amino acids and lactic acid. It provides softening
and moisturizing effects to the skin.
Goji Berries (Lycium Chinense): Rich in amino acids, beta-carotenes,
vitamin B and C and nicotinic acid. Helps to stimulate collagen
synthesis and is currently attributed to brightening properties.
Grape seed extract: It has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, and promotes the wound healing.
Green
tea: In addition to being a powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory,
green tea contains compounds (polyphenols) that are powerful agents
with antimicrobial properties, while reducing the sebum production and
therefore the acne appearance. Green tea is effective topically and
ingested, as anticarcinogenic properties have also been attributed to it
when it's comsumed constantly.
Honey: It's an ingredient with many benefits for our body, but focusing
on the skin, has great antimicrobial activity, accelerating the healing
wounds and tissue regeneration process. It's also anti-inflammatory and
provides several nutrients to the skin. It's used in a lot of cosmetic
products, from serums and esssences to creams and masks.
Hyaluronic acid: Highly moisturizing ingredient that provides hydration
and temporary tension of the skin. Sometimes it can be found in the list
of ingredients as sodium hyaluronate.
Lactobacillus ferment: A probiotic from the group of lactic
acid-consuming bacteria that has antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and
antioxidant properties. It also helps to repair the natural barrier and
restores the skin's own bacteria. It has been observed that it has
positive effects by reducing the size of acne lesions. It has been shown
that it also has the ability to track and eliminate free radicals.
Yeast
Ferment (Saccharomyces): Extract of live yeast cells that has
antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It can help speed up the
wound healing process, reduce redness in the skin and provides
hydration. People who have problems such as seborrheic dermatitis should
be careful when using products with this ingredient, as their condition
could exacerbate the problem of seborrhea and continuous desquamation.
Lotus (Nelumbo nucifera): Plant with high content of aminoacids, fatty
acids, vitamin B and C, which provide antioxidant and anti-inflammatory
properties. It stimulates blood circulation and collagen production as
well as providing hydration, brightening and soothe irritated skin.
Lycopene: They are a species of carotenes found in tomatoes, carrots,
watermelons and papayas. Unlike carotenes, they don't have activity
related to vitamin A. They have free radical inhibitory properties.
Mango seed butter: Lipid rich in antioxidants, which moisturizes the skin and helps retain moisture in the skin.
Mulberry (Morus alba): It has antioxidants that contain arbutin, a component that helps brighten the skin.
Natto Gum: Product of fermentation of soy protein. It's a rich source of antioxidants.
Niacinamide
(Vitamin B3): Helps fight inflammation, fights free radicals, improves
hydration of the skin, calms redness and improves fine lines and
wrinkles. It helps reduce the loss of water in the skin and improves its
elasticity.
Pearl: Ingredient rich in amino acids with anti-inflammatory effects. It
helps the collagen regeneration, the reduction of redness, the skin
brightening and can be used as an acne treatment.
Peptides: Peptides are fragments of proteins, which at the same time are
composed of amino acids. These peptides are a fundamental part of the
skin, as they provide protection against external agents and provide
tension and firmness. They are also used to heal wounds, skin marks and
wrinkles. They promote the production of collagen and elastin and are
anti-inflammatory. Depending on the union they have, they'll be divided
into tetrapeptides (4 amino acids bound), pentapeptides (5 amino acids
bound), hexapeptides (6 amino acids bound), heptapeptides (7 amino acids
bound), oligopeptides (several amino acids). Their tiny size allows
them to penetrate the skin barrier more easily than other larger
particles. In order for them to perform their functions correctly, they
are usually included along with other components such as antioxidants.
The peptides used for anti-aging treatments stimulate the production of
collagen to tighten the skin. When you're using them you must be
patient, because people have registered that they saw results until 3
months later. It's known that they also provide copper to the skin,
which could be an aid in the process of wound healing. The most used
peptides for anti-aging treatments are palmitoyl oligopeptide and
palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. Both will help to avoid the loose effect of
the skin and may reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Other peptides that
can be found in anti-aging treatments are palmitoyl pentapeptide-3,
which stimulates the production of collagen, and acetyl hexapeptide-3,
which relaxes wrinkles and tightens muscles, reducing the depth of lines
in the skin.
EGF / Oligopeptides (Epidermal Growth Factor): A
protein that is found naturally in the cells of our body. Its main
purpose is the skin healing promoting DNA synthesis and cell
proliferation. It's been seen that they have activity in corneal,
intestinal and mucosal wounds, although in skin care they are referred
to the skin with wrinkles or aging signs. They provide skin prevention
of pigmentation, hydration and improvement of the appearance of
wrinkles, synthesizing collagen and elastin that improve the elasticity
of the skin. It also helps repair the protective barrier of the skin,
giving it a smooth and even appearance. Unfortunately and as we get
older, EGF levels are decreasing (it has been observed that after the
age of 29 there are deficiencies).
Placenta: Contains
antioxidants and amino acids. It's obtained mainly from the sheep,
cattle or humans placenta. It gives temporary tension to the skin and
moisturizes it. This ingredient is controversial because, although there
is information that attributes its anti-aging effects to the hormones
that it naturally has, other studies have indicated that these hormones
could be dangerous, and in greater proportion when applied to the skin.
Propolis: It is used in many skincare products for its anti-inflammatory
and antimicrobial properties, also promoting the collagen synthesis. It
also decreases the activity of free radicals (acting as an antioxidant)
and helps accelerate the wound healing process by stimulating the
collagen production. Don't use it if you're allergic to it.
Rice:
Rich in fatty acids (including linoleic acid) and in antioxidants such
as vitamin E, helps to purify and soothe the skinm minimizing the pores
appearance. It also has an anti-inflammatory function, helps to boost
cell regeneration, making the skin bright. It can be used as a gentle
exfoliant.
Resveratrol: It's a substance found in foods such as red wine, grapes,
bitter chocolate, blackberries and peanuts. It's a powerful antioxidant
that also has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, being able
to fight the Propionibacterium acnes bacteria, which causes Acne
vulgaris (this has been observed in In Vitro studies). It also
accelerates the healing wounds process and slows the proliferation of
keratinocytes, which often contributes to follicular obstruction and
later to the development of acne. It is even recommended to add
resveratrol in a balanced diet, since people who consume it constantly
have a lower incidence of cardiovascular diseases.
Retinoids
(Retinaldehyde, retinal, retinol, retinyl palmitate): Retinoids have been
an interesting discovery for the photoaging treatment. These
derivatives of vitamin A can increase collagen production, improving
skin discoloration and elastic tissue degeneration and fine lines that
appear by the reduction in the number of collagen and elastin fibers.
Even its constant use can reduce the number and size of actinic
keratosis. However, these compounds can dry out the skin and leave it
photosensitive, so you have to be careful when using them and always use
sunscreen.
Shea Butter: Lipid derived from plants that is highly moisturizing, helps prevent water loss and is rich in antioxidants.
Snail
slime: It is a filtrate of the secretion (called mucin) of this animal
that contains hyaluronic acid, glycoproteins enzymes, allantoin,
glycolic acid and copper peptides. All these compounds stimulate the
collagen and elastin production, accelerate the process of healing
wounds and damaged tissue and provide moisture and hydration to the
skin. It's interesting because the collecting method of this secretion
doesn't kill or hurt snails.
Syn-ake: It's a synthetic form of snake venom. It's
attributed "anti-aging" functions because it relaxes wrinkles and
expression lines blocking the neuronal transmissions of the facial
muscles, giving an effect similar to that achieved by applying botox
because it softens and tightens the skin.
Squalene / Squalene: A lipid that can be found in shark liver, olive, wheat cereal, rice or sugar cane that is a great emollient and has antioxidant properties.
Tomato: Thanks to its many components (such as licopene, ascobic acid, tocopherol, glutathione and polyphenols), it's a great antioxidant that takes care of free radicals, which are harmful to the skin.
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid / LAA): It's a powerful antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals in the skin that generate premature aging and decreasing the chances of developing photocarcinogenesis. It also influences the synthesis of collagen and works as a depigmenting agent, matching the skin tone. It can be found in many serums, essences and creams in concentrations from 15%, 20% up to 30%. However, it oxidizes quickly with the sun contact and during temperature changes, losing its properties and some of them even change to a very marked yellow / orange color. That's why some products that contain this ingredient are recommended to keep them in the refrigerator, to lenghten their shelf life. If your skin is not used to acids yet, please don't use it with other AHA's in your routine. It's advisable to use it together with vitamin E because in synergy, mutually enhance their antioxidant and photoprotective effects. Remember that vitamin C is water-soluble and acts superficially, and vitamin E complements its effect by being oil-soluble and working in the deeper areas of the skin.
Vitamin E: It's an oil-soluble substance that our body produces naturally, but which decreases as we expose ourselves to the sun's rays. It's composed of 8 basic forms, among which are alpha-tocopherols, alpha-tocotrienols, beta-tocopherols, beta-tocotrienols, gamma-tocopherols and gamma-tocotrienols. They are present in avocado, nuts, yellow and green vegetables, meat, corn and some dairy products. They have antioxidant properties that eliminates free radicals, which are so harmful to our skin. They also provide protection for your skin against the sun's rays (THEY'RE NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR SOLAR PROTECTION, but they act as an extra protection that reduces the sunburn severity and improves the effectiveness of UV filters. They increase the natural barrier protection, reducing the loss of water. Vitamina E is often used together with Vitamin C as both potentiate its antioxidant and photoprotective effects as well as improving skin tone, giving it luminosity and improving the protective barrier. If you are going to use vitamin E oil, try to introduce it step by step, as there have been cases where it has generated breakouts due to its heavy texture.
Yogurt: Fermented milk product that has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It also contains lactic acid and zinc. Provides moisture, reduces redness and brighten the face. This ingredient is usually contained in a maximum percentage of 10% in cosmetics.
Many of these tips can be applied not just for wrinkle care, but for your complete skin care routine.
Before introducing any product, please perform a patch test: This is especially recommended when you're going to use a powerful active ingredient such as exfoliating acids. Before applying it all over your face and waiting for the chance to generate or not an allergic reaction, apply some product in the areas of your arms or chest that are sensitive and wait a bit. If you have redness, inflammation, burning or itching, it means that this product has generated an allergic reaction. However, this allergic reaction can occur up to 72 hours later. If you want to read more about this patch test, Evelyn has a pretty informative post that can help you.
Add a single product and not several at the same time: If you use many products at the same time you can irritate your skin, exposing it to the aging signs, making them more noticeable. Besides that you won't know how effective a product is for you or which specific component is generating an allergic reaction.
Be constant and very patient: These two concepts are deeply rooted and complement each other. If you want to see if a product gives good results on your skin, you must be consistent when using it. Most products that help wrinkle care require at least 6 weeks to start seeing some changes (some may even require up to 3 months to see slight signs of improvement). I've read reviews of angry people because "X" or "Y" anti-wrinkle product didn't work for them and they've been using it for 2 days.
Choose well the anti-wrinkle products: You have to choose a product that has ingredients that can help improve the appearance and condition of wrinkles, taking into account that not always the cheapest is the worst and not always the most expensive is the best.
Moisturizers can help improve the condition of dry skin, but they won't improve the appearance of wrinkles: You should look for products that contain antioxidants such as vitamin C, polyphenols or CQ10 that deliver a more concentrated dose of these directly to the skin . However, the quality, dose and penetration of the skin may vary from one product to another.
Eliminate or avoid the consumption of cigarettes: Smoking increases the chances of your skin aging and losing your health. Your skin will look dull, dry, scaly and dull, leading to the development of wrinkles.
Avoid repetitive facial expressions: Remember that the face also has muscles that contract when we gesticulate. If we perform similar expressions for a long time, the lines that are marked'll become permanent.
Have a healthy and balanced diet: There are studies that indicate that introducing fresh fruits and vegetables in our diet can help prevent the damage of premature aging, and if you eat processed sugars or refined carbohydrates a lot, you can accelerate it. By formulating a diet rich in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory products, you can optimize the health and appearance of your skin. Some suggested ingredients are beans and green fruits and vegetables, salmon and products that contain omega-3 fatty acids. The goal of introducing this type of ingredients is to decrease the production of free radicals, as well as their effects. This type of diet not only improves the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, but can help improve skin tone.
Consumes less alcohol: Alcohol dehydrates the skin and over time causes skin damage, which leads to premature aging.
Exercise: In addition to all the benefits that exercise provides organs such as lungs, heart, muscles, bones and joints, moderate exercise can improve blood circulation, enhancing the immune system. This will make the skin look younger and the signs of aging will be delayed.
Perform a gentle cleansing on your skin: Too alkaline soaps, exfoliants with large particles or active too irritate can injure your skin, causing it to be exposed to premature aging. Always try to do a gentle cleansing to remove dirt, makeup and sebum from your skin without irritating or rubbing it too much.
Don't use products that make your skin burn or itch: The "no pain, no gain" phrase doesn't apply in this regard. Remember that exposing your skin to unnecessary irritation may predispose you to future injuries.
Use emollient and occlusive products, as well as moisturizers that enhance the hydration of the skin.
Use of silicones: Silicones have a very bad reputation, but the truth is that they can be great assistants in our routine. Although they don't have an antioxidant or anti-inflammatory function, due to their silky consistency they soften the texture of the skin improving the appearance of some skin concerns such as large pores and wrinkles, which is why they are used in many primers, creams and serums. Unfortunately, this effect is temporary. They are found in cosmetics and other similar products by having the ending "-cone" or "-siloxane".
Visit a dermatologist: Specialists know new treatments specifically for wrinkle care that aren't so invasive and don't generate allergic reactions.
What did you think of this tips compendium? As always, I end up writing a testament that gets longer every time you scroll down and it seems to never end (´ヘ｀(), but trust me! Is not my intention to make anyone feel bored or make bland content. This topic excited me a lot, mainly because many people on Instagram asked me, I hope you enjoyed it and it'll be helpful to complement your routine with some recommendations of this post. Thank you very much for reading and any suggestions for the next entry of tips'll be well received, I love to write and research for you and I'll love to learn about any new topic on the road. Tons of hugs for you!
+ SOURCES +
Achterberg,
V., Behtash, M., Berroth, A., Blatt, T., Burkhardt, T., Diekmann, H.,
Dunckelmann, K., Eisenberg, T., Fey, S., Hildebrand, J., Retzer, D.,
Knott, A., Kristof, S., Krüger, A., Lüttke, J., Mielke, H., Möbius, J.,
Schwengler, H., Siegner, R., Smuda, C., Sperling, G., Teuber, F.,
Vogelsang, A., Winnefeld, M. (2015). Topical treatment with coenzyme
Q10-containing formulas improves skin's Q10 level and provides
antioxidative effects. Biofactors. 41 (6). Available here.
Addor, F. A. S. (2017). Antioxidants in dermatology. Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia. 92(3). Pp. 356–362. Available here.
Aldag,
C., Nogueira Teixeira, D.,Leventhal, P.S. (2016). Skin rejuvenation
using cosmetic products containing growth factors, cytokines, and
matrikines: a review of the literature. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. (9). Available here.
American Academy of Dermatology. How to maximize results from anti-aging skin care products. Available here.
American Academy or Dermatology. How to select anti-aging skin care products. Available here.
American Academy of Dermatology. What causes our skin to age? Available here.
American Academy of Dermatology. What causes our skin to age? Available here.
Angelo, G. (2012). Flavonoids and Skin Health. Oregon State University. Available here.
Bayerl, C. (2008). Beta-carotene in dermatology: does it help? Acta Dermatoven APA. 17 (4). Pp. 161-162, 164. Available here.
Bazin,
R., Flament, F., Laquieze, S., Piot, B., Rubert, V., Simonpietri, E.
(2013). Effect of the su non visible clinical signs of aging in
Caucasian skin. Clin. Cosmet. Ingestig. Dermatol. 2013 (6). Available here.
Bowe, W.P., Kober, M.M.. (2015). The effect of probiotics on immune regulation, acne and photoaging. International Journal of Women's Dermatology. 1 (2). Available here.
Brannon, H. (2018). Chronological Aging and the Causes of Wrinkles. Very Well Health (2018). Available here.
Canadian Dermatology Association. Photoaging. Available here.
Cho, C. (2015). The little book of skincare. Ed. HarperCollins Publishers Australia. Sydney, Australia. Pp.77-78.
Cho, T. (2018). Ingredient Spotlight: How EGF Actually Transforms Skin to Look Younger. The Klog (2018). Available here. Coleman, C. (2009). Old before your time. Dailymail.com, Beauty section. Available here.
Culebras, J.M., González-Gallego, J., Martínez-Flórez, S., Tuñón, M.K. (2002). Los flavonoides: propiedades y acciones antioxidantes. Nutr. Hosp. 17 (6). Pp. 271. 273. Available here.
Derrickson, B., Tortora, G.J. (2006). Principios de Anatomía y Fisiología. 13o. Edición. Editorial Médica Panamericana. Madrid, España. Pp. 154.
El sitio de Claudine. (2011). Péptidos en cosmética: los nuevos agentes anti-aging. Disponible aquí.
Evans. J.A., Johnson, E.J. (2010). The Role of Phytonutrients in Skin Health. Nutrients. 2 (8). Available here.
Fenske, N.A., Lober, C.W. (1986). Structural and functional changes of normal aging skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 15 (4). Available here.
Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology. 4(3). Available here.
Goad, K. (2010). Anatomía y Fisiología de la piel. Available here.
Gon Lee, B., Ho Chung, J., Kyung Kim, Y., Seop Chang, I., Sung Hwang, J., Young Lee, J., Young Seo, J. (2008). Loss of elastic fibers causes skin wrinkles in sun-damaged human skin. Journal of Dermatological Science. May.2008. Available here.
Guazzarotti, G. (2010). How do antioxidants work? Beautiful with Brains. 2010. Available here.
Guazzarotti, G. (2018). Treatment VS Prevention: What really Works against wrinkles? Beautiful with Brains. 2018. Available here.
Hays, J.T. Is it true that smoking causes wrinkles? Available here.
Helfrich, Y.R., Sachs, D.L., Voorhess, J.J. (2008). Overview of Skin Aging and Photoaging. Dermatology nursing. 20 (3). Available here.
Jampolis, M. (2018). Aging gracefully: Tightening your skin safely and effectively. CNN Health (2018). Available here.
Korean Beauty Dream. (2016). [TIPS] Rutina coreana: Starter kit para comenzar - Productos recomendados. Available here.
Luczaj, W., Skrzydlewska, E. (2005). Antioxidative properties of black tea. Prev Med. 40 (6). Available here.
Maher, W., Mammone, T., Muizzuddin, N., Schnittger, S., Sullivan, M. (2012). Physiological effect of a probiotic on skin. J. Cosmet Sci. Nov-Dec. 63 (6). Available here.
Mayo Clinic. Wrinkle creams: Your guide to younger looking skin. Available here.
Nejatzadeh-Barandozi, F. (2013). Antibacterial activities and antioxidant capacity of Aloe vera. Organic and Medicinal Chemistry Letters. 3 (5). Available here.
Park, C., Thompson, K. (2015). Korean Beauty Secrets: A practical guide to cutting-edge skincare and makeup. Editorial Skyhorse Publishing. New York, U.S.A. Pp. 33-47.
Paula's Choice. Peptides for Skin. Available here.
Paula’s Choice Skincare. What Causes Wrinkles. Available here.
ShareCare. What do collagen and elastin do? Available here.
Skin Cancer Foundation. (2012). Anti-Aging Treatments. Available here.
Stibich, M. (2018). The Free Radical Theory of Aging. Very Well Health (2018). Available here.
The Dermatology Review. Peptides for Skin. Available here.
Wong. M. (2018). The Lab Muffin Guide to basic skincare: The science of skin, explained simply. Lab Muffin Beauty Science. Pp. 31-32, 111. Available here.
0 comentarios
Me gustaría saber qué opinas 💖 Por favor no dejes enlaces, pasaré a visitar tu perfil 😊
I would like to know what do you think 💖 Please don´t leave links, I´ll visit your profile 😊